On my long list of pet peeves in life are men’s suits and how they are improperly tailored. This happens more often than you think and for me, one small detail can really throw off the whole look. Did you ever see a really handsome man wearing a suit and it looks either sloppy or (worse) like he raided Pee Wee Herman’s closet? Disappointing, to say the least. For example, the suit on the the left is obviously too big but has been altered to the point where in the picture on the right, it appears to be about a half size too small.
I understand this is the trend right now; tight fitting pant legs and tight fitting jackets. But think about what 5 years and 5 lbs is going to do to the look of the suit. When buying a suit or tuxedo for your wedding, going for a classic look will NEVER be a bad fashion choice. In addition, if you study the picture closely you will see diagonal lines in the jacket from the armhole to the button. A well fitted suit will not have those diagonal lines when the jacket is buttoned, it will fit smooth and hang straight down from the point of the button.
Having a touch of Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, I consulted a top notch tailor to discuss the proper fit of a man’s suit. Here are the tips and hints I have put together for you when having your wedding suit or tuxedo tailored:
PANTS – The back of the pant leg should rest at the top of the sole of the shoe. The point where the sole meets the shoe is where the back pant hem should be.
The front of the pant should taper up and have a 1/2″ break (pleat) in the front so it rests gently on the top of the shoe in front.
Never trust anyone who advises you to wear a belt and suspenders at the same time. Choose one or the other.
SLEEVES- Make a fist. If the cuff falls at the tip of your fingers it is the right length.
SHIRT – No matter what style of shirt or jacket, the shirt sleeves should be 1/2 ” longer than the jacket sleeve, always.
Two button suits are timeless. If you choose one, three or more buttons, you risk having your suit fall into a category of “Last Year’s trend”. The top button should be at the bottom of the rib cage and the bottom button should be at the waistband of your pants.
Double Breasted suits look best on men with a slim physique, not too broad in the shoulders.
There should always be a pleat in the back of the suit to allow for movement. The pleat should not fall open at any time while you are wearing it unless you are seated, while you are seated the jacket should be unbuttoned.
Although the selection of the suit is all based on personal preferences, taste and style, the fit should be impeccable. If you are at a loss or can’t remember every detail of this blog, try to remember this: What Would James Bond Wear?
-Penny Frulla for Bridal Expo Chicago